The process of constructing a gable roof with your own hands. How to calculate and make a gable roof with your own hands Gable roof step by step

You can install a gable roof yourself, but you can’t do it without an assistant.

How to build a roof yourself? Let's find out! I will give simple step-by-step instructions for assembling a gable roof, developed from personal installation experience at many sites. You will learn how to install a mauerlat, ledge, pediment, rafters, as well as how to install roofing materials.

What you need to know about gable roofing

There are 3 types of roofing systems widely used:

single-pitched,
gable,
hipped.

Illustration	Type
	Single-pitch. Despite the ease of construction, it is not functional enough and cannot be installed on every site.
	Gable. Unlike a single-pitched roof, a gable roof can be assembled on any construction site.
	Four-slope. Unnecessarily complex, both in planning and construction.

A distinctive characteristic of gable roofs is the rafters, spaced at the same distance from each other. For stability, the rafters are connected to each other by transverse elements of the sheathing.

In this design, an attic space is created between hanging or layered rafters, which can be used as an attic or as an additional utility room.

In front and behind the slopes there are pediments connected to the facade of the building. The gables are made blank or equipped with glazing and ventilation.

In accordance with the design features, gable roofs are divided into symmetrical, asymmetrical and broken.

Illustration	Type
	Symmetrical- traditional structures in which the rafters are arranged in the shape of an isosceles triangle.
	With different slope angles- unconventional solutions that are used due to the complex architecture of the building.
	Pincer (broken)- complex structures with a characteristic break in the middle of each slope.

Required elements in the design of gable roofs

The diagram shows commonly used roofing system options. What they all have in common is that the mechanical load from the rafter system is transferred to the Mauerlat and through it to the load-bearing wall.

If the construction of a gable roof is carried out on small objects, such as a garage, temporary shed, shed, etc., the tie rods can be installed not on the Mauerlat, but through the reinforcing belt - on the walls.

To make everything clear in the rafter system assembly instructions, read the list of structural elements and their purpose.

Illustration	Description
	Mauerlat. A beam rigidly fixed to the load-bearing walls, which serves as a support for the rafter legs. Takes on the weight of the rafter system and transfers the load to the load-bearing walls. To make the Mauerlat, hardwood is used, which is not prone to cracking.
	Rafter legs. Diagonally located supports, which together with the tightening form trusses. The entire roofing pie is installed on the rafter legs.
	Puff. A horizontal beam that connects the rafter legs at their bottom. Through the ends of the tightening, the load is transferred to the Mauerlat and to the load-bearing walls.
	Rigel. A horizontal brace installed at the top of a roof truss. This part fastens adjacent rafter legs and is used as an attic ceiling.
	Rack. A vertical beam that connects the purlin and the tie. To do this, the stand is fastened with one end exactly in the center of the tightening, and with the other - at the center of the purlin.
	Run. A horizontal beam that is attached below the ridge beam. The purlin in the system is needed to connect the rafter legs in their upper part.
	Sill. A horizontal beam installed in the same way as a purlin, but in the lower part of the rafter system - tightened. Due to the support, the load from the vertical posts and struts falls not on the inner wall, but on the mauerlat.
	Strut. A diagonal brace that connects the base of the post and the middle of the rafter leg. The strut provides additional rigidity to the truss on a roof with a large area or with a small slope angle.

What to consider when calculating the roof

In accordance with SNiP 2.01.07-85, rafter systems for low-rise buildings are calculated taking into account the following loads:

Weight of the rafter system;
Weight of thermal insulation materials (if a warm roof is calculated);
Roofing weight;

The most important parameters for calculating the rafter system are the snow and wind load. If the total weight of the roof can be controlled by selecting roofing materials, then one has to adapt to the loads of wind and snow.

A large accumulation of snow on the slopes leads to breakage or collapse of the roof. To compensate for the snow load, the correct angle of inclination of the rafters is selected. But too much slope is the reason for the roof covering to break off in strong winds.

The optimal angle of inclination of a gable roof, taking into account snow and wind loads, is 30-45°. As the slope increases, we will get more intense snow shedding, but at the same time the wind load will increase.

The choice of slope angle also depends on the floor area and the desired dimensions of the attic space. The larger the area of the attic floor, the greater the angle of inclination of the roof. The relationship between these parameters is shown in the table.

If you plan to install an attic, you can use a sloping roof. A sloping gable roof with an attic ensures intensive snow shedding even with a slight slope of the slope

Construction of a roof on a house made of aerated concrete blocks

Step 1: prepare building materials

Let's find out how to make a gable roof using the following instructions as an example.

From lumber you will need:

Boards 200×50 mm - for rafters;
Boards 150×25 mm - for sheathing;
Bars 50×40 mm - for counter-lattice.

Before building the rafter system, we treat the harvested lumber with antiseptic impregnations. We do this in advance, because processing an already finished structure will not be easy.

If the price of special antiseptic impregnations exceeds the planned budget, you can use used motor oil. Mining on the surface of the lumber creates a hydrophobic layer that will prevent the boards from rotting.

Step 2: install the Mauerlat

Illustration	Description of the stage
	Leveling a load-bearing wall. The end of the wall along which we will lay the mauerlat is not perfectly smooth. Therefore, we level the surface with cement-sand mortar or masonry glue.
	Laying waterproofing. Lay a strip of roofing material on top of the dried solution. This way we will eliminate direct contact between wood and concrete. If there is no roofing material, the surface of the load-bearing wall can be coated with bitumen mastic or simply melted resin.
	Laying the Mauerlat. Since the roof area will be small, we use not a beam, but a 200x50 mm board as a mauerlat. We lay the board flush with the outer edge of the wall.
	Marking the Mauerlat for anchors. We make markings so that the anchor is located at a distance of 15 cm from the place where the rafters are attached. We will use anchors 150 mm long with a diameter of 12 mm. We immediately prepare washers, as shown in the photo, so that the bolt presses down the board.
	We fasten the Mauerlat. We drill the board through with a 12mm wood drill. We pass through the hole into the wall with a 12mm drill and drill 150mm deep. We drive anchors into the prepared holes. We tighten the anchors so that the nut, through the washer, presses the board.

Step 3: install the bed

This stage is performed in the same way as laying the Mauerlat, and therefore we use the same building materials and the same anchors. But there is a difference - if one longitudinal board was used as a mauerlat, then we will use two boards laid on top of each other as a bench.

Illustration	Description of the stage
	Leveling the surface of the inner wall. To do this, we use masonry mortar to fill the relief. To prevent the leveling layer from cracking, I recommend covering it with plastic wrap while it dries.
	Installation of waterproofing. We lay the roofing felt in strips. In order for the wall to stand on the end of the wall as evenly as possible, strips of roofing material are laid not overlapping, but end-to-end
	Laying the bed. We lay the plank boards so that their edge is flush with the edge of the wall.
	Fastening the bed. Drill a hole through two boards to the concrete. Then we use a drill to drill into the concrete to the depth of the anchor. We drive the anchors into the drilled holes and press the wall to the surface of the wall.

Step 4: install the pediment

The pediment can be laid after the rafters are assembled. But it is better to lay out the blocks in advance, since the finished rafters will interfere with masonry work.

The laying of a pediment from aerated concrete blocks is carried out with an offset of the next row relative to the previous one. For high quality masonry we use only special glue.

To ensure that the pediment is level, after laying each new row, we check the correct installation in the vertical and horizontal planes.

Step 5: install racks and purlins

Illustration	Description of the stage
	Making the markings of the bed. In accordance with the design of the roofing system, we mark the location of the rafter legs on the floor. We will install the racks according to the rafter location mark, with an indentation of 50 mm.
	Installing two end posts. We install the outer posts that will be adjacent to the gables. We make the racks from 200×50 mm boards and attach them to the bed with L-shaped hardware and self-tapping screws. Additionally, we fix the racks on the bed with diagonal spacers.
	Installation of a run. We fasten the purlin with L-shaped hardware and self-tapping screws. We check the horizontal position of the purlin with a level. If the level is full, we eliminate the difference by filing one of the racks or adjusting the mounting hardware in height.
	Installing intermediate racks. We do this in the same way as we installed the outer posts, but according to the corresponding marks on the bed.

Step 6: Installing the Rafters

Illustration	Description of the stage
	We transport the boards to the installation site. We calculate the required number of boards and, one by one, lift them up. We lay the boards brought up with one end onto the mauerlat and the other end onto the bench. As a result, there should be two boards near each rack.
	Purlin alignment. We measure the distance from the edges of the purlin to the mauerlats. Most likely there will be a slight distortion. To level the purlin, we temporarily attach diagonal spacers, as in the photo.
	We start the rafters for the run. On the run, close to the mark on which the rafter leg will rest, we attach the block. We use a clamp to attach the rafter beam to the beam.
	We make markings for the purlin and Mauerlat. Using a square, we mark the rafters in the part where they will lie on the purlin and on the mauerlat. To get the same markings for the cutout, you can make a template from thick cardboard. But the template can only be used if the rafters are the same width.
	Cutouts for purlins and Mauerlat. Using a miter saw, we make cuts according to the markings. We apply the prepared board with one edge to the purlin, and the other edge to the mauerlat. We do the same work with the adjacent beam.
	We try on and cut adjacent rafters. We bring the prepared rafters together on a line, join them and mark them, as in the photo. According to the markings made, we cut adjacent boards so that there is an even joint between them.
	Fastening the rafters. We connect the rafters with perforated fastening hardware, and fix them on the mauerlat and on the purlin. We install the rafters on the side of the opposite pediment in the same way.
	Landmark stretch. We mark the same distance on the rafters, for example, a meter from the ridge. We screw in the screws according to the markings. We stretch a cord between the opposite rafters, which will mark the edge of the rafter system.
	Installation of intermediate rafters. We carry out installation according to the previously made mark. Be sure to check the verticality of the rafters according to the level.

After the rafters are assembled, we finish working on the gables. At this stage we will make and install additional panels to give the masonry a finished look.

Illustration	Description of the stage
	Pediment marking. Along the rafter line we mark the laying of aerated concrete blocks.
	Trimming blocks. According to the markings made, we cut down the protruding sections of the pediment.
	Manufacturing of additional elements. We cut out liners from pieces of aerated concrete blocks to the size of the recesses at the end of the pediment. We try on the manufactured additional elements in place and, if necessary, adjust them.
	Laying additional elements. We make masonry glue and place additional elements in the corresponding recesses.

Step 7: strengthening the rafters with ties and braces

To make the roof more stable, we will install reinforcing elements - braces and tie rods. We will make reinforcing elements from 200×50 mm boards and attach them to adjacent rafter legs, passing through the rack.

Illustration	Description of the stage
	Installing a template. We cut a piece of board 200x50 mm, which we will use as a template. We attach the template at the junction of the stand and the bed, as in the photo.
	Fastening the tightening. We place a horizontal board on the template, level. We fasten the leveled board along the edges to the rafters with bolts through through holes. We screw the board in the center with self-tapping screws to the stand.
	Trimming the tie along the rafter line. From the end of the tightening, we mark the line of passage of the rafters. According to the markings made, we cut the edge of the board.
	Installing the remaining puffs. Following the example of the first tightening, we assemble and fasten the subsequent tightenings to the opposite pediment.
	Installation of crossbars. We make spacers from a 150x25 mm board, which we attach close to the bottom of the purlin. We fasten the crossbars with self-tapping screws on the rafters and on the rack.

Step 8: trimming (trimming) the rafters

Illustration

Description of the stage

Marking of overhangs. The optimal length of rafter overhangs is 50-60 cm. We measure this length along the bottom of the overhang from the wall.

We apply a level to the mark we made and draw a vertical line along it.

From the vertical line we draw the shape of the overhang, taking into account the subsequent location of the cornice strip.

Trimming of overhangs. Using the markings, we cut the end of the rafter leg with a miter saw. We perform a similar operation on all rafter legs, along the perimeter of the roof.

The photo shows the overhang of the rafter system - the front cut should be vertical, and the bottom cut should be horizontal.

Step 9: installation of the roofing pie

Illustration	Description of the stage
	Installation of frontal and cornice boards. In the front part of the overhang, we lay 100x25 mm boards in specially made cutouts. We fasten the boards laid in the cutouts with two self-tapping screws to each rafter leg.
	Remove the protective film from the dropper. The thick protective film must be removed before installation. Once the bar is installed, it will be difficult to cope with this task.
	Installation of drip. We attach the drip strip to the roofing nails. We hammer nails along the upper edge of the drip in increments of 30 cm. When hammering nails, we try not to push through the drip, so as not to damage the protective layer of the paintwork.
	Installing caps on rafters. We cut out the plugs from 150×25 mm boards and install them in the gap between the rafters. The plugs are needed to prevent the mineral wool insulation from sliding down.
	Preparing the drip line for membrane installation. We glue double-sided tape along the upper edge of the drip. We will then attach the vapor-permeable membrane to this tape.
	Installation of sheathing. We attach the bars to the rafters through a lined vapor-permeable membrane. We install transverse sheathing boards on the bars in 30 cm increments.
	Ridge waterproofing. At the level of the ridge, we push the membrane under the sheathing. After this, we tighten the sheathing bars with self-tapping screws.
	Trimming the sheathing at the ends of the slopes. We stretch a cord between the ridge and the front board at a distance of 50 cm from the gable. We make markings along the cord. Use a miter saw to trim the edges according to the marks.
	Reinforcing the edge of the sheathing. Along the entire slope we hem the edge of the sheathing with a block. We attach the block to each board with two self-tapping screws.
	Installation of roofing material. We lay out sheets of metal corrugated sheets and fasten them along the sheathing with self-tapping screws and press washers.

Conclusion

Now you know how to make a gable roof of a house with your own hands. The proposed instructions will be useful when building a country house or cottage. To learn even more on the topic, watch the video in this article. If you have any questions about the technology and need clarification, write about it in the comments.

The roof becomes an important structure of the house. She completes the construction of the building frame, after which only finishing remains. The most common implementation scheme is with two slopes. You can make a gable roof with your own hands without much difficulty, you just need to understand the technology.

Roof structure

Before you begin installing a gable roof, you need to understand what it is. The design differs from all others in its pediments. The following varieties can be given depending on the method of assembling the rafter system:

single-pitched - the pediments have the shape of a trapezoid or a right triangle;
gable is characterized by triangular gables;
hipped (hip) has no vertical edges.

The main elements of the gable roof system are:

rafters;
Mauerlat;
crossbar;
struts;
racks;
contractions (ties);
sheathing;
thrust bars and pads.

Rafters are the main load-bearing structures. When constructing with your own hands, it is important to choose the correct cross-section, otherwise an emergency situation may arise.

Preparing to start work

Before making a gable roof, you will need to select materials. Installation begins with the selection of wood. To build a reliable structure with your own hands that is resistant to external factors, you will need to follow the following recommendations:

For construction it is better to choose coniferous species of the first or second grade

It would be right to choose softwood materials (spruce, pine, larch are more resistant to rotting);
the structure is assembled from wood of the first or second grade, the use of the third for critical elements is unacceptable;
it is better to choose those lumber that are produced in the northern regions; the more complex the growing conditions of the tree, the denser its structure;
they try to choose the material that was cut down at the end of the cold period of the year (February-March).

load from snow cover (snow region);
weight of the roof covering;
rafter pitch;
span (distance between reference points);
insulation thickness.

A thermal insulation layer is required when designing a residential space – an attic – in the under-roof space of a house. Most often, do-it-yourself installation of mineral wool material is done to improve the thermal insulation characteristics. In this case, it is important to provide a ventilation gap between the heat insulator and the roofing. The height of the rafter leg should not be less than the thickness of the insulation. To increase the clearance, a system element such as a counter-lattice is introduced - a block that is nailed parallel to the rafter and increases its height.

The most convenient pitch of rafters for a private house is one that provides a clear distance between them of 0.58 m.

This allows you to correctly install mineral wool slabs without trimming or additional elements. For such a step, the following recommendations for the cross-section depending on the span can be given:

span 3 m – rafter size 40x150 mm;
4 m – 50x150 mm;
5 m – 50x175 mm;
6 m – 50x200 mm.

It is important to know the following: load-bearing capacity and bending resistance are more affected by height than width. If necessary, increase the load-bearing capacity more effectively by increasing the height.
Another element whose cross-section will need to be selected is the sheathing. The most optimal value would be a thickness of 32 mm. With increased load, the value is increased to 40 mm.

The remaining components of the house's rafter system are assigned structurally, based on what lumber is available. But it is still worth taking into account the strength requirements.

Immediately after purchasing the material, before assembling the system begins, you will need to treat all the elements with special compounds yourself.

A gable roof, like any other roof of a house, needs the following types of protection:

antiseptic, carried out without fail, helps prevent the processes of decay and the occurrence of mold and mildew (even if installation is not planned some time after purchasing the wood, the treatment is carried out immediately);
fire retardant, optional, but very important, it increases the wood’s ability to resist fire, thereby increasing the safety of the structure.

Installation of a house rafter system

To build the roof of a house with your own hands, you need to complete all the work in a certain order. Installing the elements is not difficult, but you need to control the quality of the components and connections. The most important areas are:

fastening the Mauerlat to the wall;
fastening the rafters to the mauerlat;
fastening the rafters together.

To properly build a roof with your own hands, work should be done in the following order:

Mauerlat installation;
installation of rafters at the designed angle;
fastening the legs at the top;
fastening of load-bearing structures using racks, struts and contractions;
installation of counter-lattice, sheathing, waterproofing;
do-it-yourself insulation of the roofing system;
installation of the bottom sheathing, installation of the roofing.

Attaching the Mauerlat to the wall

When installing it yourself, it is important to understand where to lay the Mauerlat. A beam with a section of 150x150 mm or 200x200 mm is installed on the inner edge of the external walls. It is important to ensure sufficient thermal insulation of such an area. The outer part of the fence in this area can be made of the same material as the walls.

In this case, the laying is performed at an angle equal to the slope of the slopes. The second option is to fill the space with expanded clay concrete. These methods are relevant for stone houses (brick, foam concrete, expanded clay concrete, etc.). If you plan to build a frame or wooden house, the top frame or crown of the wall will act as a mauerlat.

You can do the job in several ways:

Fastening with staples. To do this, wooden blocks are installed in the penultimate row of masonry, to which the lower part of the brackets will be attached, and the upper part is inserted into the mauerlat. Wooden plugs must be impregnated with an antiseptic.
Fastening to wire. To carry out this option, you will need to lay a wire 3-4 mm thick in the masonry of the walls or a monolithic belt; its length should be such as to wrap the beam and twist the wire rod.
Fastening with bolts or studs. The options are similar, but the first provides greater reliability. Fasteners are placed in a monolithic belt. After this, the timber is laid on studs or bolts. To make holes for them in the right places, lightly tap the Mauerlat. The resulting depressions will be places for drilling holes. After their preparation, the beam is finally installed in the design position and tightened with nuts.

When building a house, it is also important to know how to build a mauerlat. The standard dimensions of lumber are 6 m, and the walls can be longer. To connect two elements along the length, you will need to perform a direct lock. To do this, the lower part of one element is cut out, and the upper part of the other. Fastening is done with bolts. It is not recommended to cut at an angle in this case. Corner joints are also made using a straight cut.

The choice of method for attaching the Mauerlat largely depends on the material of the walls, or more precisely on its strength. For lightweight concrete, pouring a monolithic belt around the perimeter will be a mandatory step.

It is important to provide waterproofing between the wood and the stone material. For this purpose, roofing material, linochrome or waterproofing material are most often used.

There are two most common options for doing the work yourself when building a house:

with a gash;
without drinking.

In both cases, the rafters are additionally secured with metal corners on both sides. When using a system with a saw, you will need to process the timber at an angle corresponding to the slope of the roof of the house. When installing without cutting, you need to prepare a support beam with your own hands, which will not allow the system element to move across the Mauerlat. As an additional fixation, nails are hammered in and a twist of wire is inserted from the leg to the wall (this fastening can be done through one leg).

2 types of fastening rafters to the Mauerlat

In order to obtain detailed and visual information on how to install a gable rafter at home with your own hands, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the series “Knots of wooden roofs of residential rural buildings.” This album contains a large number of options for securing all elements, which will help you complete the installation without errors.

In this article I will try to describe in detail how a gable roof is built. This form is practically the simplest, suitable for a private house, and its construction, from the point of view of monetary costs, is more profitable compared to other more complex roof configurations.

- in the second case, the rafters rest on the floor beams of the floor below. A gable roof made according to this option will be described here.

Let's take a brick box house as an example. Its dimensions are 8x8 meters, height 3 meters. The construction of any roof with your own hands begins with the installation of maeurlat (Fig. 1). Methods for attaching it to the walls were described in the article, which you can read

We install the Mauerlat flush with the inner surface of the walls. It should be bricked up on the outside so that it is not visible. In this case, the upper surface of the Mauerlat should be 2-3 cm higher than the top surface of the facing brick, so that the entire load from the roof is transferred only to the Mauerlat. No need to load.

Next we install the floor beams. We do this in the sequence shown in Fig. 2. First of all, we install the beams indicated by the numbers 1,2,3,4. Their extension determines the width of the cornice. We usually take it from 40 to 50 cm at the request of the customer. As beams we use a beam, the cross-section of which is determined by making a simple calculation described in detail. In our case, it will be a beam of 100x200 mm.

After securing the outer floor beams, we pull the string along the upper plane and set the remaining beams, if necessary, tightening the Mauerlat under them, or, on the contrary, placing thin plywood (you just often order timber with a height of 200 mm, and they deliver it from 190 to 210 mm, this is what we have on our sawmills equipment). We select their pitch taking into account the pitch of future rafters. When using 50x150 mm floorboards as rafters, take a step of 60-70 cm (it is better to take 60 cm, since roofing insulation has this width).

Having installed all the long beams, we install the short ones (Fig. 2). Their step is enough to take about 1 meter. This diagram is slightly different from what we are used to seeing in similar pictures. We came to it after the gable ebb on one of our first roofs sagged, although the ebb fillers were quite securely fastened. In this scheme, the possibility of sagging is completely eliminated.

We fasten all beams to the mauerlat with 150 nails; you can also use metal rafter angles and self-tapping screws. In general, the use of various fasteners for rafter connections makes the work easier. This is especially convenient for an inexperienced person; there is no need to make complex cuts and nicks. We have already talked about this in the article ““.

After installing all the beams, we lay (without fastening) boards on them, maybe floorboards, maybe inch boards. They are needed simply to walk on them calmly. In order not to clutter the drawing, I did not show them on it. The next step is to install the ridge beam.

First of all, we place racks made of 50x150 mm boards level or plumb and fasten them with temporary spacers. In Fig. The 3 spacers are shown on one post only, again to avoid cluttering the drawing. The pitch of the racks is no more than 3 meters. First we place the outer ones, then, pulling the laces between them, we place the intermediate posts. After the entire truss has been erected, the intermediate posts can be removed and you can easily create living rooms on the second floor.

The height of the racks is selected depending on the shape of the roof you want to achieve. I usually advise customers to take it equal to the height of the first floor along the facade (the distance from ground level to the mauerlat). This proportion is also shown in the figures.

Having installed the racks, we place the ridge beam on them and literally fix them with a couple of screws. We use a 50x200 mm board (in principle, 50x150 mm is also possible).

Now we move on to the installation of rafters. First we need to make a template from a 25x150 board. To do this, apply it to the end of the ridge beam and to the beam (Fig. 4) and draw two lines. Having sawed off a board along them, we get a rafter template.

Of course, it is very good when the foot of the house is laid out with high geometric accuracy and the floor beams are also installed. Then we can cut all the rafters at once according to the template and calmly install them. But to be honest, this is quite difficult to achieve, and even more difficult when a new roof is being installed on an old house.

In this case, we first make only the top cut on the rafter according to the template. Then we take the resulting workpiece, apply it to the desired beam and mark the bottom cut, as they say in place. All rafters are installed in this way (Fig. 5). Please note that after installing one rafter, we immediately install the opposite one in order to quickly remove the lateral load on the ridge beam (otherwise it will bend).

When the length of the roof slope is large and a standard 6-meter board is not enough, you can go in two ways. The first (I think it is preferable) is to order longer boards at the sawmill. Of course it will cost more. For example, at the end of autumn 2012, 1 cube of 6-meter boards cost about 5,500 rubles, and 1 cube of 7.5-meter boards cost 7,000. But installing rafters is easier and faster than using the second method.

The second method requires splicing two boards. This can be done by sewing on them a piece of board of the same section 1.5 - 2 meters long. See the figure for how this is done. It is better to make the joint at the bottom, and an additional stand must be installed under it.

We attach the rafter to the ridge beam with two or three nails. To attach to the floor beam, we have recently been using metal fastening plates and screws and adding a couple of nails. Sometimes we use staples. By the way, I have seen many times how people use staples, but they do it incorrectly. The bracket must work in tension. Below in the left photo - how not to do it, on the right - how to do it.

Having strengthened the truss, we begin to work on the gables. First, we install additional racks that will serve as the frame of the pediment (Fig. 7). The accuracy of installation is controlled by a string stretched along the bottoms of the rafters. Then we make a window opening (Fig. 8). You can make it any size and configuration you want. Please note that in the picture, the post standing in the center of the window (supporting the ridge beam at the beginning) was simply cut. It no longer bears virtually any load. Having finished with the frame, we sheathe the pediment with an inch (for example, 25x150 mm) (Fig. 9).

The next step is to hem the eaves boards around the entire perimeter of the house. The front board (sewn to the ends of the floor beams) is made from a 25x200 mm board. From the bottom to the cornices we sew two belts from a 25x100 board (Fig. 10). They are more than enough to secure the soffit when finishing the exterior.

Now, if we are going to install a drainage system and use metal holders for gutters, they need to be installed on the footrails right now (under the waterproofing film). Moreover, it is also advisable to cover the front boards with siding at this stage. Then it will not be very convenient to do this. I didn't show this in the picture. In addition, we now only use plastic gutter holders that are attached directly to the front board. They are more convenient and can be installed after the roof is assembled.

Next we proceed to the sheathing. First of all, using a construction stapler, we attach the first strip of waterproofing film to the rafters (Fig. 11). It is more convenient to work if you already have scaffolding installed around the perimeter of the house. In any case, you will have to install them when you are doing the roofing, drainage, and sheathing the eaves with siding.

Having secured the film, we nail the counter-lattice slats (25x50 mm) to the rafters. The need to use a counter-lattice is described in detail here: . Do not forget to leave space for the overlap of the subsequent waterproofing strip.

Then we make the sheathing. Now I will not focus on the rules for its installation. This topic is for a separate article. In addition, any roofing is accompanied by instructions that describe in detail how to make the sheathing specifically for this material (the pictures schematically show the sheathing for metal tiles). I will try to prepare a new article on this topic in the near future.

In this way we cover the entire roof (Fig. 12). After this, all that remains is to make the gable overhang and gable ebb. The sequence here is:

Using self-tapping screws, we attach the wind board of the gable overhang (25x150 mm) from below to the protruding ends of the sheathing (Fig. 13);

We insert and secure with self-tapping screws the fillets of the gable overhang (board 25x150). The distance between them is approximately 1 meter (Fig. 14);

We sew two belts to the fillies from below (board 25x100). There are also enough of them to subsequently cover the gable overhangs with siding (Fig. 15);

From pieces of 50x150 boards of the required length we prepare triangular fillies for the gable ebb according to the figure (Fig. 16). Then, having secured them to the stems, we also nail two belts (25x100) to them.

This completes our roof. What happened in the end and what will happen after completing the roofing work and covering the gable and eaves with siding is approximately shown in Figures 17 and 18.

A gable roof is rightfully considered one of the simplest roofing structures; moreover, it perfectly protects from snowfall, heavy rain and sharp gusts of wind. You can make such a gable roof yourself.

Building a gable roof doesn't require any special skills from you, but there are a few key points to consider. Recommendations for the materials used are given in the tables below.

So, what do you need to know in order to build a reliable gable roof structure yourself? Naturally, you need to start with a support on which the entire structure will rest.

Mauerlat

Mauerlat is a wooden beam, most often square in shape, securely fastened to a load-bearing wall. It is this that is the foundation of the roof and the rafters already rest on it.

Rafters

Rafters or rafter legs are inclined beams connecting the mauerlat to the ridge beam. A ridge beam is needed to connect both halves of the roof into a single structure using rafters.

For the ridge, it is recommended to choose timber made of durable wood, because it connects the structure into a single whole and affects its reliability. In order to reduce the harmful effects of precipitation on the walls of the house, the rafters are made longer with the help of additional sections, creating an overhang. This makes it possible to avoid problems such as severe wetting of the walls.

The slope angle of the gable roof is recommended to be 30 degrees. This slope simultaneously reduces the likelihood of snow accumulation on the roof and reliably protects against strong gusts of wind.

Sill

A roof is a roofing element made from timber. Its main task is to provide additional reliability to the roof ridge. It serves as a vertical support, so it is recommended to choose timber for it from durable wood species and a sufficiently large diameter.

Puffs

The tie rods are a transverse beam that serves to strengthen the mauerlat and prevent longitudinal loads from collapsing the entire roof structure along with the load-bearing walls.

Racks

The purpose of the racks is to prevent the rafters from sagging. They are additional vertically installed bars. The racks take on part of the load and reduce the risk of deformation of the structure in the future.

To ensure that the gable roof structure is not subject to diagonal deformation, it is supplemented with beams running from the racks to the tie rods. The optimal connection angle here will be 45 degrees.

Sheathing for a gable roof

The last stage in the construction of a gable roof is the sheathing. It is done simply: narrow longitudinal bars or slats are laid on top of the rafters. It is recommended to keep the distance between the slats small, which will reduce the risk of roof deformation under the influence of environmental factors. In addition, the lathing will allow you to easily move on the roof during construction or repair work.

Fastening parts

Naturally, all roof parts need to be secured to each other.

In order to connect structural elements located diagonally to each other, the groove connection method should be used. Many builders also use this type of connection to fix parts located perpendicular to each other. It is worth paying attention to the fact that the groove connection makes the parts less durable, and it can be used without risk only in places that do not play an important role.

Another way to fasten parts to each other is to fix them using metal plates and corners. Its disadvantage is that the screws tend to come out of the base under angular loads, thereby depriving the roof structure of reliability and stability.

You can see photos of do-it-yourself gable roofs below.

Video “How to make a gable roof with your own hands”

The last stage of building a house is arranging the roof. Traditionally, a gable roof is erected for any residential building, and a single-pitch roof is erected for outbuildings. Technological processes for the installation, fastening and arrangement of a roof with a rafter structure in a gable roof version have been perfected for centuries, and these operations do not change depending on the type of roofing materials (clay tiles, corrugated sheets, metal tiles, asbestos slate, metal or plastic).

Types of gable roof

People say: “a roof like a house,” that is, they mean not only the shape, but also the reliability of the structure, which has a long list of advantages:

A variety of roofing scheme options and architectural roof shapes;
Simple calculations and cost-effectiveness of the roof;
Natural runoff of precipitation;
Simple geometric shapes of the roof ensure a low probability of water accumulation and roof leakage;
Large usable attic area, it is possible to make an attic;
Good maintainability, high strength, durability and wear resistance of a roof made of two slopes.

The three most common options for a gable roof:

Symmetrical gable roof: This is the most popular solution due to its absolute reliability and ease of execution. Symmetrical slopes evenly distribute all loads on the mauerlat and walls of the house. The choice of roofing material does not depend on the type and thickness of the thermal insulation layer. The load-bearing load can be easily increased by making the rafter system from thicker timber; the jibs and spacers can be attached anywhere. Negative factor - a full-fledged attic will not work in such an attic - either there will be low sloping walls with many “dead” zones, or a small but rectangular room;
Asymmetrical roof of two slopes: Different slope angles reduce the usable area of the attic, but on one side you can make a full-fledged living space. Due to different roof slope angles, the load on the load-bearing walls and foundation of the house is distributed unevenly, which requires recalculating the load-bearing capacity of the base and load-bearing walls of the house, recalculating the types of materials and their quantities, as well as changing the methods of insulation, waterproofing and finishing;
Asymmetrical gable roof with internal or external bend: Allows you to design living spaces without regard to the roof structure. The disadvantages are the same as in the paragraph above.

Preparing to build a house roof

The shape of the roof and its design can be selected based on the size of the building, the material of the load-bearing walls, and the geographic location of the site. These and other parameters specified in the project determine what loads a gable roof can withstand during operation.

The slope angle of the slopes has a certain optimal range, in which weather conditions have the least influence on the formation of maximum loads on the roof. If the slope angle is ≤ 400, then this limits the possibilities of equipping an attic or a full-fledged room in the attic, and a slope angle ≤ 100 increases the load on the roof from rain, wind or snow. If you definitely want to have an attic or a room in the attic space, it is better to use the option of a sloping asymmetrical roof, and if the walls of the house are more than 6 meters long, then the rafter system must be strengthened with additional purlins.

When calculating building materials for a gable roof, it is necessary to proceed from the axiom that the weight of roofing materials should be as small as possible so as not to load the walls and foundation of the house. Wooden elements will be stronger not only by increasing their cross-section, but also by using suitable types of wood. The main parameter when calculating materials is the total area of the roof, and a symmetrical structure in this regard is easier to calculate than others - it is enough to know the perimeter of one slope, double its area, and get an accurate result.

The main load from the weight of the roof is borne by the long walls of the house, so the rafter system is built on the principle of distributing the load along the system. For a small house (≤ 6 m), it is more practical to use a system of hanging rafters (without supports); when building a larger house, a system of layered rafters with a more complex configuration is used.

A finished gable roof for a private house consists of the following elements and components:

Mauerlat is a wooden (sometimes metal, if the roof will be covered with rolled metal) beam or log that is attached to the surface of the external walls to support the rafters on it;
A rafter system, the design of which is selected based on the design of the house;
Struts (diagonal fastening of rafters to each other) and ridges (beams along the roof ridge for fastening the slopes);
Lathing – used for installation of roofing and hydro-noise insulation elements;
Insulation and moisture protection;
Roofing covering.

How to mount the Mauerlat

The Mauerlat along the walls of the house holds the weight of the roof, evenly distributing it over the walls and base of the house. The width of the timber for the mauerlat should be equal to the width of the wall. The timber is impregnated with an antiseptic and substances that increase the fire resistance of the wood. The outer border of the Mauerlat should not protrude beyond the outer edges of the walls.

The Mauerlat is attached in different ways. Steel wire Ø 8-12 mm is laid in the brick wall, holes for the wire are drilled in the wood, and through them the timber is tied to the wall. The timber can also be secured with staples, threaded rods of one or two teeth, metal plates, wooden pegs or anchors through the same holes in the Mauerlat. The gables and lower edges of the sheathing are attached either directly to the mauerlat, or to a beam of smaller cross-section, which is nailed (screwed) to the top frame.

Floor beams

When arranging beam floors for the roof of a private house, it is necessary to use a wooden beam with a cross-section of 200 x 100 mm. The larger the area of the house, the larger the section of the supporting beam should be. Begin the installation of beams by attaching the outermost elements along the long wall of the house. Then the points where the remaining floor beams will be attached are marked.

The lathing is mounted on longitudinal beams, which are located at a distance of 50-60 cm, and attached to the mauerlat with nails 200 mm long or any of the above methods. The beams are carried beyond the edges of the walls to a distance that determines the width of the cornice - from 30 to 50 cm. The cornice will be nailed (screwed) from below to these beams. Since a pediment will be installed at the ends of the roof, to attach the cornice and pediment, an insert is made into a groove on the transverse beam of the mauerlat. When constructing a sloping roof for an attic, the pediment will have a fairly large area, so it is necessary to ensure the design of the ebb and gable overhang.

The rafters of a gable roof are several identical wooden beams of the same length and cross-section. After installing the floor beams, a ridge beam is attached, for which beams with a cross section of 100 x 50 mm are secured along the central longitudinal axis of the house with spacers. The height of the racks in a typical gable roof scheme is equal to the distance from the floor to the upper surface of the Mauerlat. Instead of timber for the ridge, you can use boards 50 mm thick.

Before installing the rafter system, it is recommended to make a scale template. To do this, the board from the rafter structure must be attached with one end to the beam, the other to the ridge, and mark its length. This will be the standard length of the rafters.

The rafter system is also installed according to the template, observing the sequence of processes. After installation and fastening from the lower end of one rafter beam, you must immediately fasten the opposite rafter and connect the beams with their upper ends to each other through the ridge. The rafters are nailed to the ridge beam, and to the floor beam - with steel brackets or angles, self-tapping screws or anchors. For a roof of any shape with two symmetrical or asymmetrical slopes, boards are fastened lengthwise and crosswise under the rafters to give rigidity to the system.

Pediment and cornice

The pediment is sewn up after the construction of the rafter structure is completed. Modern materials are increasingly replacing traditional wood when sheathing gables, and now they use lining, siding, corrugated board, and other durable decorative finishing materials. Any cladding material is attached to a frame, which is mounted in advance. Regardless of whether or not there is a room or attic in the attic, it is necessary to leave a window opening in the gable - for ventilation and minimal natural lighting of the space.

The cornice must be installed around the entire perimeter of the house - it is necessary for moisture and wind protection of the truss structure, the walls of the house and the foundation. Since every self-respecting owner must install drainage systems around the perimeter of the house, they are also attached to the eaves, and drain pipes to the walls. The plastic drainage system is mounted on plastic clamps. The bottom of the cornice boards or cornice frame is painted, sheathed with siding, clapboard or corrugated sheeting - in unison with the finishing of the pediment.

The roof is mounted on the sheathing, and, based on the type of roofing materials, the sheathing is first done with vapor barrier, hydro- and heat-insulating materials. For roofing, you can use ondulin, metal tiles, ceramic materials, soft tiles, etc.

Self-tapping screws for roof construction must have the manufacturer’s mark and EPDM gaskets ≥ 2 mm thick, otherwise roof leakage cannot be avoided;
Poor-quality protective coating of fittings will quickly deteriorate under the influence of weather conditions, which will lead to leakage at fastening points and an unsightly appearance in the form of rusty or dirty spots;
The absence of a snow retention system means the possibility of unexpected snow falling off the slopes, which can lead to failure of the roofing and drainage systems;
Poor ventilation leads to the formation of condensation in the under-roof space.